The Polarizing Experience of Traveling in India
You’ll love your holiday travel in India, or you’ll hate it.
Travel through this vast country will immerse you in a passionate cauldron of historic tribes, abject poverty, ancient customs, stifling heat, conflicting climates, diverse geography, spectacular landscapes and suffocating crowds of humanity, all flavoured with spiritual and mythical cosmologies.
Many a tourist has bought an air ticket to enjoy a few months of holiday travel but has instead remained for a lifetime.
Others have abandoned their travel in India because they can’t stand the heat, the chaos and the grime. This is a country where people have more than 600 million mobile telephones but more than 600 million people don’t have access to a toilet and instead defecate in public.
Whatever your opinion, you’ll appreciate how cheap it is to travel in India and you’ll enjoy an inexpensive holiday wrapped in a rich, vibrant culture more than 5,000 years old.
India is a country that evokes strong reactions from its visitors—you’ll either love your holiday travel here or find it overwhelming.
This vast nation offers an unparalleled blend of history, diversity, and vibrancy, but it also challenges visitors with its chaos, heat, and disparities.
A Land of Contrasts
Traveling through India is an immersion into a dynamic and diverse cultural landscape:
- Historic Tribes and Ancient Customs: India’s heritage spans more than 5,000 years, offering a rich tapestry of traditions and historical narratives.
- Diverse Geography: From the snowy peaks of the Himalayas to the tropical beaches of Goa, the country showcases spectacular landscapes and varied climates.
- Spiritual and Mythical Cosmologies: India is a global hub for spiritual seekers, offering experiences tied to yoga, meditation, and ancient philosophies.
- Crowded Yet Vibrant Urban Life: Cities like Mumbai, Delhi, and Kolkata are bustling metropolises teeming with energy and humanity.
Why Tourists Stay—or Leave
India has a unique ability to capture hearts or test patience:
- Those Who Stay:
- Many visitors arrive with a short itinerary but find themselves extending their stay indefinitely, captivated by the country’s charm and complexity.
- Those Who Leave:
- The intense heat, chaotic environment, and lack of sanitation can deter travelers. For example:
- India has over 600 million mobile phones, yet more than 600 million people lack access to toilets, leading to public defecation and hygiene challenges.
- The intense heat, chaotic environment, and lack of sanitation can deter travelers. For example:
The Benefits of Traveling in India
Despite its challenges, India offers a uniquely rewarding experience for adventurous travelers:
- Affordable Travel:
- India is one of the most budget-friendly destinations in the world.
- Accommodation, food, and transport come at a fraction of the cost compared to Western countries.
- Rich Culture:
- Every region boasts distinct cuisines, languages, festivals, and traditions, making each state a unique travel experience.
- Timeless Heritage:
- Ancient monuments, temples, and historic sites—such as the Taj Mahal and Varanasi—serve as portals into India’s storied past.
Final Thoughts
India is a country of extremes, where beauty and challenges coexist. Whether you’re enchanted by its cultural richness or overwhelmed by its intensity, India will leave an indelible mark on your perspective. One thing is certain: traveling in India is a journey unlike any other.
The Republic of India: A Country of Diversity and Complexity
The democratic Republic of India covers 3.28 million square kilometres encompassing 28 different states and has a population of 1.21 billion (2012).
In 2010, it was estimated that 350 million Indians were illiterate (74% national literacy), 318 million didn’t have access to safe drinking water and 250 million had no access to basic medical care. About 300 million Indians live on roughly 600 rupees a month.
About 72% of citizens are Indo-Aryan and most of the remainder are Dravidian. Four out of five Indians are Hindu and about 14% are Muslim.
The five major language groups are Hindi, Urdu, Bengali, Tamil and Kashmiri, although there are 18 languages officially recognised in the Indian Constitution.
Well over 1,500 minor languages and dialects can be found throughout India but the common tongue among the upper classes is English.
Hindi is the predominant language in northern India but travel to the south and you’ll find the main languages are Dravidian.
If you speak English you can holiday and travel through India fairly easily as there are usually enough people around who can understand you, dependent upon exactly where you are during your vacation.
Don’t totally rely on English during your holiday travel in India as there are a lot more lower class than upper class people you’ll want and need to speak to, and the poorly-educated often don’t speak English.
If you plan navigating city streets by map during your holiday travel, be aware beforehand that reading or understanding street signs in India can be very difficult.
India’s travel services have improved markedly over the past 20 years and now cater for all levels of tourist demand, although even tickets for the plush hotels are well-priced by Western standards.
Regardless, there are still plenty of Third World disadvantages you’ll notice within India’s infrastructure and many visitors come down with at least a tummy bug during their India holiday travel.
India travel tip: in October, 2009, floods caused by torrential rain in the southern states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Maharashtra killed at least 230 people and left almost 1.5 million people homeless. In early September 2008, more than a million people were trapped by floodwaters in the State of Bihar bordering Nepal. Note that India has unpredictable monsoonal weather and it’s always worth monitoring media reports and weather bulletins.
India, a democratic republic spanning 3.28 million square kilometers, is home to 28 states and a staggering 1.21 billion people (2012). Its vastness is matched only by its diversity, making it a compelling yet challenging destination for travelers.
Demographics and Society
India’s population is a tapestry of ethnicities, religions, and languages:
- Ethnic Groups:
- 72% Indo-Aryan and the majority of the remainder are Dravidian.
- Religious Composition:
- 80% Hindu, 14% Muslim, with smaller percentages of Christians, Sikhs, and others.
- Languages:
- India recognizes 18 official languages in its Constitution.
- Major language groups include Hindi, Urdu, Bengali, Tamil, and Kashmiri.
- More than 1,500 minor languages and dialects are spoken nationwide.
- English is the common tongue among the upper classes, making it relatively easy for English-speaking tourists to navigate.
- Note: Lower-class or poorly-educated individuals often do not speak English, especially in rural areas.
Socioeconomic Realities
While India’s economy and infrastructure have improved, significant challenges remain:
- Literacy and Basic Services:
- As of 2010:
- 74% national literacy rate, leaving 350 million people illiterate.
- 318 million lacked access to safe drinking water.
- 250 million had no access to basic medical care.
- As of 2010:
- Poverty:
- Around 300 million Indians survive on roughly 600 rupees a month (~$7 USD in 2010).
Travel Considerations
India is a land of contrasts, and travel here requires preparation:
- Language Tips:
- While English is widely understood in urban centers, maps and street signs can be hard to interpret.
- In southern India, Dravidian languages dominate, unlike the Hindi spoken in the north.
- Improved Travel Services:
- Over the past two decades, India’s travel infrastructure has evolved to cater to a range of budgets.
- Luxury accommodations and services are affordable by Western standards.
- Despite improvements, visitors may encounter infrastructure challenges and should prepare for possible health issues, like tummy bugs.
- Weather and Monsoonal Hazards:
- India’s monsoons are unpredictable and can lead to severe flooding:
- In October 2009, floods in Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, and Maharashtra killed 230 people and left 1.5 million homeless.
- In September 2008, over a million people were trapped by floodwaters in Bihar.
- India’s monsoons are unpredictable and can lead to severe flooding:
Key Travel Tips
- Monitor weather reports and bulletins, especially during the monsoon season.
- Be prepared for language barriers, particularly in rural areas.
- Pack accordingly to stay healthy and avoid common travel ailments.
- Embrace India’s diversity and be ready for both its beauty and challenges.
India is a country of incredible contrasts—modern and ancient, affluent and impoverished. It offers travelers a unique blend of cultural richness, vibrant traditions, and breathtaking landscapes, but also requires patience and adaptability to fully enjoy the journey.
Practical Tips for Traveling in India
Keep a small supply of toilet paper with you wherever you go during your holiday travel in India as there’s no guarantee it’ll otherwise be available.
Using the Indian currency of rupia is an art in itself.
Horde smaller denomination notes when you travel in India as there is always a shortage of small change, but avoid small notes that are obviously in a poor to filthy condition.
Although many tourist hotels and restaurants add a 10% service charge to the bill, tipping is uncommon in India except in upmarket hotels.
At the same time, many service providers throughout Indian society won’t lift a finger or won’t stop nagging until a little baksheesh is given to them - inverse tipping, so to speak, that is nowhere but everywhere.
Baksheesh is a way of life in India and it’s better to go along with it throughout your holiday travel, particularly if a service has been well delivered.
Failure to provide tips can result in grumpy travel guides or drivers … not surprising since their families are often living in poverty.
Keep a horde of cheap notes so you can satisfy the constant demands for baksheesh during your holiday. It’s relentless. It’s India.
Religion permeates every aspect of Indian life. About 80% of all Indians are practising Hindus and about 100 million are Muslims.
Islam is the predominant religion in the northern state of Jammu/Kashmir.
About 18 million Sikhs are concentrated in the Punjab, their holiest shrine the Golden Temple in Amritsar.
Intertwined is a culture that has survived for thousands of years in the rural areas of India where you’re likely to travel (unless you plan a hotel holiday in a city). Amritsar is a city of just a million people, small by Indian standards, and has a correspondingly quiet, peaceful ambience.
India offers a unique and vibrant travel experience, but preparation is essential to navigate its cultural and practical quirks. Here’s a guide to help you make the most of your journey.
Essentials for Your Journey
- Carry Toilet Paper: Always keep a small supply of toilet paper, as it may not be available in many places.
- Understand Currency Use:
- India’s currency is the rupee (INR).
- Hoard smaller denomination notes for convenience, as small change is often in short supply.
- Avoid notes in poor or filthy condition, as they may not be accepted.
Tipping and Baksheesh
- Tipping:
- Generally uncommon except in upmarket hotels.
- Some tourist establishments add a 10% service charge to the bill.
- Baksheesh:
- A cultural norm akin to “inverse tipping.”
- Often expected by service providers such as travel guides, drivers, or porters.
- Keep a supply of low-value notes to meet frequent demands for baksheesh.
- Failing to tip can result in dissatisfaction or poor service.
Religion and Culture
Religion deeply influences every aspect of life in India. Here’s a breakdown:
- Hinduism:
- Practiced by 80% of the population.
- Islam:
- Dominates the northern state of Jammu/Kashmir.
- About 100 million Muslims reside across the country.
- Sikhism:
- Concentrated in Punjab, home to 18 million Sikhs.
- The Golden Temple in Amritsar is their holiest shrine.
Rural India, where many travelers venture, reflects the enduring traditions of these religions. Even in cities like Amritsar—a small city by Indian standards with just 1 million people—you’ll find a peaceful ambience and cultural depth.
Final Travel Notes
- Embrace the baksheesh culture for smoother interactions.
- Stay mindful of the religious and cultural diversity you’ll encounter.
- Keep smaller denomination notes handy to navigate daily transactions with ease.
- Enjoy the blend of ancient traditions and modern practices that define this fascinating country.
India’s complexities can be overwhelming, but with these tips in mind, you can navigate its challenges and fully immerse yourself in the beauty and vibrancy of Indian culture.
Discovering India: Culture, Food, and Travel Insights
Comics have joked that the third religion in India is the game of cricket. When you see the Indian devotion to major cricket broadcasts and the number of youngsters bowling and batting near every street corner, you’ll realise they weren’t kidding.
Food in the north of India is meat-based with plenty of grains, breads and spices, while southern diets are much more vegetarian with hotter curries.
Many travellers consider south India to be more “Indian” than the north, less affected by foreign cultures with wetter monsoons, redder earth, thicker vegetation, more complex words and names, and more elaborate temples.
Also in the south, many more people eat only with the fingers of their right hand.
There is a diverse and at times haphazard range of opening hours for shops in the different parts of India through which you will holiday and travel. Many shut their doors on Sundays.
Although India has a fascinating chioce of museums, most are closed on Mondays.
You can buy film for your camera just about everywhere you travel in India but it’s smart to stock up. Don’t trust the age of film from some of the more remote towns and villages.
Cheap internet cafes can be found in most towns although connection speeds are often slow.
Alcohol is abundantly available in most parts of India, but not if you holiday in the north-west Muslim stronghold state of Gujarat.
The Indian postal system is cheap although it can be frustratingly slow trying to send a parcel overseas.
Smoking is endemic among Indian men in particular and it can be difficult to avoid as you travel through India’s numerous holiday spots. A ban on smoking cigarettes in restaurants, bars, offices and other public spaces came into effect across India in October 2008 but most reports indicate the law is not being enforced and few fines are being issued.
🏏 Cricket: The Third Religion of India
Comics often joke that cricket is India’s third religion—and for good reason! The passion for cricket runs deep, with major broadcasts drawing millions of devoted viewers and kids bowling and batting on every street corner.
🍛 North vs. South: A Culinary Journey
- Northern India:
- Meat-based dishes
- Plenty of grains and breads
- Rich in spices
- Southern India:
- Predominantly vegetarian
- Hotter curries with bold flavors
🌿 South India: The Essence of “Indian”
Many travelers find south India to be more authentically Indian:
- Cultural Distinction:
- Less influenced by foreign cultures
- Home to elaborate temples and complex languages
- Natural Beauty:
- Wetter monsoons
- Redder earth and lush vegetation
- Unique Habits:
- Eating with the right hand is more prevalent
🛍️ Shop Smart: Opening Hours in India
- Shops have varied and unpredictable hours across the country.
- Many close on Sundays—plan your shopping accordingly!
🏛️ Museums in India: Know Before You Go
India boasts a fascinating array of museums, but note that most are closed on Mondays.
📸 Camera Essentials: Stock Up
- Film for cameras is widely available, but it’s best to stock up in advance.
- In remote areas, film quality may be questionable.
🌐 Internet Access: Cheap but Slow
- Affordable internet cafes are common.
- Expect slower connection speeds, especially in smaller towns.
🍹 Alcohol Availability: Regional Differences
- Alcohol is widely available across India.
- Exception: Gujarat, a Muslim-majority state in the northwest, has strict alcohol laws.
📮 Postal System: Affordable but Slow
- Sending parcels overseas is cost-effective but may test your patience due to slow processing.
🚬 Smoking in India: Widespread and Unregulated
- Smoking is common, especially among men.
- A ban on smoking in public spaces was introduced in October 2008, but enforcement remains lax.
Plan Ahead: India offers an unforgettable blend of culture, food, and travel experiences, but a little preparation can go a long way to make your journey smoother.
Solo Travel in India: Safety, Challenges, and Social Realities
Solo travel in India is particularly hazardous if you’re not quick on your feet and it’s silly to get involved in any of the frequent political or religious rallies in different Indian cities during your Indian holiday travel.
Note that although biases from India’s ancestral caste system are forbidden under Indian law, prejudice still reigns in many villages and it’s common to see lower caste men and women being treated poorly. For example, dalits - previously known as untouchables - are still often forced to draw drinking water from separate wells and huge sections of Indian society suffer discrimination in education, jobs and health care.
In May/June 2007, violent caste riots involving tens of thousands of impoverished villagers swept the state of Rajasthan, killing and injuring dozens of people. Tourists should avoid political gatherings in the streets.
Since economic reforms were introduced in the early 1990s, India has been a globalisation success story with a vibrant democracy, an emerging entrepreneurial class and literally millions of millionaires.
However, about 30% of the population still live below the poverty line and about 2.5% still go hungry. In 2010, 37% of Indians were living below the poverty line - 22% rural and 15% urban. A study published in 2007 stated that 836 million people, or 77% of the population, live on less than 20 rupees (about 40 cents US) each a day. India’s official poverty line is 12 rupees a day. The report also found that about 86% of the working population - 395 million people - work under “utterly deplorable” conditions. In 2010, a report by global consultancy firm McKinsey predicted that the number of Indian households earning less than 90,000 rupees a year will have fallen below 20% by 2030.
More than half a billion Indian citizens do not have a toilet and about 600 million people defecate in the open, often creating a health risk. India has been building millions of public toilets in recent years and the the public hygiene situation is improving. However, in 2010 it was estimated there were more mobile phones than toilets in India. Research by UNICEF has found that 53% of Indians wash their hands after defecation, 38% wash their hands before eating and 30% wash their hands before preparing food.
There are more than 11 million abandoned children in India, mostly girls, and in 2007 the Indian Government announced plans to increase the number of children available for adoption by overseas families.
Despite its widespread social inequity, India doesn’t suffer a particularly significant culture of violent crime, regardless of its rampant petty theft and nonchalant fraud.
There are dangerous areas and alcohol causes its usual problems but you should generally feel just as safe during your India holiday travel as you would in most major western cities and towns - perhaps more so.
Nevertheless, it’s probable that a majority of tourists fall victim to a con during their holiday travel through India.
Although not always fair, you shouldn’t trust strangers you meet in the streets during your holiday.
⚠️ Safety Tips for Solo Travelers in India
- Stay alert and quick on your feet to navigate bustling cities.
- Avoid political or religious rallies to minimize risks during your India holiday travel.
🏚️ The Legacy of the Caste System
- Although legally abolished, caste-based biases persist, especially in rural areas.
- Dalits (formerly “untouchables”) still face:
- Separate wells for drinking water
- Discrimination in education, jobs, and healthcare
- Violent caste riots, like those in Rajasthan (May/June 2007), highlight ongoing tensions.
- Travel Tip: Steer clear of political gatherings.
💰 India: A Land of Contrasts
- Since the 1990s, India has emerged as a globalization success story:
- Vibrant democracy
- Growing entrepreneurial class
- Millions of millionaires
- Yet, poverty remains a stark reality:
- ~30% of the population lives below the poverty line.
- In 2007, 77% of Indians lived on less than ₹20/day (~$0.40 USD).
- About 86% of workers endure “utterly deplorable” conditions.
- Progress Forecast: By 2030, households earning less than ₹90,000/year will fall below 20%.
🚻 Public Hygiene: A Work in Progress
- Over 600 million Indians defecate in the open, posing health risks.
- Recent years have seen a surge in public toilet construction.
- UNICEF Findings:
- 53% wash hands after defecation.
- 38% wash hands before eating.
- 30% wash hands before preparing food.
- Fun Fact: In 2010, there were more mobile phones than toilets in India!
👶 Abandoned Children: A Silent Crisis
- India has over 11 million abandoned children, most of them girls.
- The government is working to increase overseas adoptions.
🛡️ Crime and Safety During Your Holiday
- Violent crime is relatively rare compared to petty theft and fraud.
- General Safety Tips:
- Avoid dangerous areas, especially where alcohol-related incidents are common.
- Be cautious with strangers in the streets—con artists often target tourists.
- Despite these challenges, you’ll likely feel as safe during your India holiday travel as in many western cities.
Plan Wisely: India offers unforgettable experiences, but understanding its social dynamics and safety challenges will ensure a smoother, more enriching journey.
India: A Land of Contrasts, Culture, and Travel Tips
The country has a tragic history of tribal and religious warfare, colonial subservience and political assassinations, but can nevertheless boast a comparatively strong and economically buoyant entry into the new millennium.
Travel to India and you’ll be struck by the divide between the technologically advancing city culture and the traditional piety of many millions of rural folk outside the cities.
Landless peasantry and poverty are most apparent in areas such as Bihar and West Bengal, where villagers were dying of starvation in 2004.
The capital of West Bengal is Kolkata, better known as Calcutta until the name was changed in 2000. Many locals still call the city Calcutta and for 200 years it served as the capital of British India.
Kolkata is considered India’s cultural capital and the city comes alive at nights with crowded bars. A cultural highlight is the annual Durga Festival, one of India’s largest, wherein thousands of durgas (sculptures of the goddess of war) are floated into the Hooghly River where they dissolve, while thousands of devotees party in the streets.
Kolkata has endless sights to draw tourists: the Eden Garden cricket grounds (one of the world’s great sports grounds), the Victoria Memorial (a marble white monument to the British full of artefacts of the Raj), the New Market (opened in 1874), the Indian Museum (the oldest in India and possibly the largest in Asia), the Malik Ghat flower market, the Botanical Gardens at Shibpur, and the tomb of Mother Teresa. Kolkata has countless colonial monuments and its streets are alive with people 24 hours a day.
As is common in Asian countries, Kolkata is a great holiday travel destination to have clothes measured by a street-side tailor and sewn within a couple of hours for just a few dollars. Reflecting its cultural tradition, the streets of Kolkata are dotted with booksellers vying for the attention of travellers who want to buy literature at a fraction of the price in most countries.
The eastern State of Bihar is poverty-stricken and infamous for its crime and lawlessness. Tourists are advised to return to their hotels before dark and only use government-licensed taxis and buses for transport. Bihar is dotted with Buddhist holy sites, the most revered at Bodh Gaya.
More than a third of India’s population receive inadequate diet and electricity shortages are common in many areas.
India’s economy comprises traditional village farming, modern agriculture, handicrafts, numerous modern industries, support services and a booming software service export sector. In 2011, India’s Gross Domestic Product (US$3,700 per capita) grew by 6.8%, with an unemployment rate of 9.8%.
Don’t trust anybody’s advice or prompting to visit shops, no matter where you travel in India, as just about everybody has a commission agreement and their cut will increase the price.
During your India holiday travel, try to find shops with fixed prices but be aware that those prices are likely to be a fair bit higher than you’d find elsewhere if you’re good at bargaining. Mind you, it’ll probably still be cheap compared with prices back home.
Unless you’re comfortable and deft with hawkers, it’s a good idea to pre-book your holiday accommodation in India.
Tourists are repeatedly touted for business, both licit and illicit, and the best response during your vacation is to flatly decline or ignore.
India travel tip: The American dollar is no longer accepted at heritage tourist sites in India such as the Taj Mahal. From early 2008, tickets are charged in rupee and the change makes such tickets about 25% more expensive for American tourists.
🕊️ A Complex History
India’s history is marked by:
- Tribal and religious warfare
- Colonial subservience
- Political assassinations
Despite this, the country has entered the new millennium with a strong and economically buoyant foundation.
🌆 City vs. Village Life
- Urban India:
- Rapid technological advancements
- Vibrant city culture
- Rural India:
- Traditional piety and poverty
- Landless peasantry, especially in Bihar and West Bengal, where starvation persists
🕌 Exploring Kolkata (Calcutta): India’s Cultural Capital
-
Historical Significance:
- Served as the capital of British India for 200 years
- Name changed from Calcutta to Kolkata in 2000, but locals still use both names
-
Top Attractions:
- Eden Gardens: One of the world’s greatest cricket grounds
- Victoria Memorial: A marble monument showcasing British Raj artifacts
- New Market: Opened in 1874, a bustling shopping destination
- Indian Museum: The oldest museum in India and one of Asia’s largest
- Malik Ghat Flower Market and Botanical Gardens at Shibpur
- Tomb of Mother Teresa: A site of spiritual significance
-
Cultural Highlights:
- Durga Festival: A grand celebration where thousands of goddess Durga sculptures are immersed in the Hooghly River amidst vibrant street parties.
-
Local Experiences:
- Street-side tailors: Get custom clothes sewn in hours for just a few dollars.
- Booksellers: Pick up affordable literature reflecting Kolkata’s cultural traditions.
🗺️ Bihar: A Land of Spirituality and Struggles
- Known for poverty, crime, and lawlessness.
- Travel Tips:
- Avoid going out after dark.
- Use only government-licensed taxis and buses.
- Key Attraction:
- Bodh Gaya: Revered Buddhist site and place of pilgrimage.
📊 India’s Economy: Tradition Meets Innovation
- Components:
- Traditional village farming and modern agriculture
- Handicrafts, modern industries, and booming software exports
- Key Stats (2011):
- GDP growth: 6.8%
- Per capita GDP: $3,700 USD
- Unemployment: 9.8%
💡 Travel Tips for Your India Holiday
- Shopping:
- Avoid unsolicited advice to visit shops—most people work on commission, inflating prices.
- Seek shops with fixed prices but note these may still be higher than those you can bargain for.
- Accommodation:
- Pre-book your stay to avoid aggressive touts.
- Hawkers and Touts:
- Best response: Politely decline or ignore.
- Currency Tip:
- As of 2008, the American dollar is no longer accepted at heritage sites like the Taj Mahal. Tickets are charged in rupees, making them ~25% more expensive for American tourists.
🤔 Cultural Realities
- Over one-third of the population receives an inadequate diet.
- Electricity shortages are common in rural areas.
- Despite its challenges, India remains an enriching and unforgettable destination for travelers.
Plan Ahead: Balance the modern and traditional aspects of India for a fulfilling experience during your India holiday travel.